Day Twelve Sunday 31st July

A beautiful early morning (G went out jogging!) followed by steady rain all day has turned into a lovely evening, cool but not too cool to eat out and then enjoy a stroll to admire the views across the water.

We braved the rain to walk to the Bageri and the Fiskehus this afternoon for supplies, and G produced a lovely fish platter for supper - marinated and smoked herring fillets, salmon pate, crabbesalat , and gravadlax with crusty seeded bread. Delicious! I have done some washing - the very amiable chap who runs the place didn't charge me for my tokens for the tumble drier "because you are English" - and washed my hair. We have taken advantage of the rain to enjoy the Sunday papers, something we never have time for at home. So, feeling thoroughly relaxed, it's not altogether surprising that we are contemplating another night here!

Most people do seem to be spending several nights here. We have Danish, German, Swedish and Norwegian Campervans around us, and the common language is definitely English. But so far we have only spotted one GB number plate, and that was yesterday.

One small problem, how long will my IPad survive? It slid off the front seat onto the gravel two days ago, and the screen is crazed. It is currently being held together with cling film!

Day Eleven Saturday 30th July

After a beautiful balmy evening when we could have been in the Meditteranean, it was bucketing it down this morning. We had intended to visit the open air folk museum just outside Odense, but probably to skip Odense itself despite  the Hans Christian Anderson and Carl Nielson connections.  It was still pouring down when we pulled into the car park, so we had our statutory morning coffee with two digestive biscuits, and headed off again. The decision was made to head straight for Seeland. One look at the heavy traffiic and spray on the motorway, and we reinstated the "avoid motorways" instruction and followed a much more pleasant route to the bridge which links Funen and Seeland. This is amazing, seeming to go on for ever, and incorporating a little island in the middle. It is even longer than the Oresund Bridge. At 240 DKK, about £30, the toll is steep, but justified.

Finding ourselves with a bit longer in Seeland than expected, we decided to dip down to the south coast before heading north, and now find ourselves at another marina in the thriving little seaside resort of Karrebaeksminde. With good facilities including the comfortable (and empty) club house where I am writing this curled up on a leather sofa, we thought we might have a rest day tomorrow, and a break from driving. The rain had stopped, and sun and blue skies reappeared. A few minutes walk into town, mostly restaurants and holiday homes, and we discovered a wonderful bakery and an even more wonderful fishmonger, and the decision was made. With good wi-fi so that we can download the Sunday Times, and the attraction of comfort whatever the weather, plus the ability to do a bit of washing, it makes sense. And G is planning to shop for and cook supper - fish, of course!

Day Ten Friday 29th July

G had an early morning walk, and then we whiled away the morning with a leisurely breakfast and time on the fast internet connection in the comfortable clubhouse before setting off. We have now left Jutland behind -  with some sadness. It has been lovely - and crossed by bridge to the middle bit of Denmark, Funen. The countryside is quite different, very rolling and green, and the villages and towns look more like communities than the predominantly holiday places we saw around the Jutland coast.
We are now in one of 6 spaces reserved for campervans  in the harbour at Faaborg, on the south coast, where we can look across to the " unmissable and unpronounceable " island of Aeron - this is where I wish that I had followed G's example and discovered a Danish keyboard which includes all their odd vowels. Anyway, we shall be missing out on a trip there - even 11 weeks doesn't allow time for everything!
We have had a wander around the  very attractive town. Lots of pretty, brightly coloured alleyways and cobblestones. The weather is still very pleasant, and the town square restaurants were already buzzing with people sitting outside to eat. We also managed to find a stationers where we bought an A4 binder and pockets so that we can rescue the pages of our precious Camperstop book which are already falling out through overuse.
It has been interesting to discover how popular Midsomer Murders is over here. Yesterday a Swedish chap told us how he had been to England and visited " all the important places. Oxford, London and Midsomer Murders country". He was particularly proud of the fact that he had enjoyed a drink in the pub where "Commissaire Barnaby " drank.

Day Nine Thursday 28th July

Having said that the facilities were good, G was not impressed last night when he went to have a shower, got undressed and placed  the "tally card"  which we had been required to load up on a pre-pay basis, into the slot, only to be told 'not enough money left'. In Danish, of course! 25 Krone,  about £3.50, had provided one shower and a couple of loo trips. We shall avoid sites using  Tallycards in future wherever possible.
Today's exploring proved very interesting. We headed for Jelling, which Lonely Planet informed us was a place of such historical and spiritual importance that most Danish people visit it at least once in their lifetime. In a small village, insignificant on the map, is a beautifully kept site with two burial mounds and a church between them. There is a most impressive information centre, with wonderful interactive moving graphic displays telling the story of Christianity in Denmark from the 10th century to the present day.
We then made for our planned Camperstop, which sounded idyllic. A forest Rastplatz, or layby, where campfires were permitted. Sadly,someone had taken this permission to extremes- the loos were wrecked and burnt out, whether by accident or on purpose it was hard to tell. But it was a shock to find such a mess when we have become accustomed to well kept laybys with never even any litter in sight. We had lunch, including our first experience of Proper Danish Pastries, seriously good, and then moved on.
Before heading to our alternative site we couldn't resist a detour via Billund. G pulled into a layby opposite the entrance to Legoland, and risked life and limb scampering across the road braving the coaches turning and the hordes of visitors to take a photo and prove we were there! We then headed out again, quickly, past the Airport built especially to serve Legoland.
And so, another evening, another marina, this one far classier than last night's. It is just outside the small town of Bortok, and approached down a meandering lush road of large, impressive houses. There is a nice looking restaurant which was full when we strolled past, a few smart apartments, and a 'clubhouse' similar to the one at Egense two nights ago. The night is still, and the marina and the views from it lovely - reminiscent of the South Devon coast. We are on our own in the designated Campervan area.

Day Eight Wednesday 27th July

Last night's site was very lovely, and we were not joined by any other Campervans. Most of the harbourmaster's house, we discovered, was given over to facilities for those moored in boats, and which were available to us as well. So a large kitchen with table and chairs, and an upstairs lounge area, gave the place the feel of a youth hostel. Very pleasant and comfortable. It was still light after 10 pm.
After a very leisurely start, we made our way down the coast heading for tonight's stop at Horsens. We have already learnt to programme the SatNav to avoid ferries (except if we want one of course) after she tried to send us up the west coast via a ferry. We weren't prepared to reach a dead end only to find that ferries ran twice a week. This time we made sure to programme to avoid motorways, and enjoyed a very pleasant journey. The speed limit is 50 mph almost everywhere on the A roads, but they are wide and with relatively little traffic. It may take longer, but the journey is all part of the enjoyment, and these routes are much more relaxing and interesting. Lunch and a snooze in a wooded layby was enjoyable, too.
The site in Horsens is a bit of a change. Think edge of Car Park. A fifth campervan has just arrived to take the last place, and we are all quite closely parked. I am happy now that we have moved from our first position, next to the waste/loo disposal, and, being only little, we have done relatively well for space either side. It is a busy harbour, with a number of clubhouses and a restaurant, and a regatta of some sort was in full swing when we arrived. It is also the most expensive site so far, although the facilities, again shared with the boats, are good, and there is free wifi in the services building. G says we will have to find a free site tomorrow night to make up for it!
I don't think I have mentioned the third element of our navigational equipment. In addition to the SatNav (we have tried to give her a name but nothing seems right) and a road atlas, G has installed the Pocket Earth app on his IPad, and downloaded the countries we are visiting. This is a truly amazing app, and also means that I am not entirely redundant as a navigator. Without the combination I cannot imagine how we would find these Camperstops. Using the App you can zoom out for an overview and in to get all the street names. I can also check that SatNav is not trying to take us down a dead end, which has happened a couple of times! The downside is that it is quite heavy on battery, so daily recharging is necessary.
After getting a bit humid, it is now raining in earnest, so crisps and a glass of wine call, I think, before supper. It's a hard life.

Day Seven Tuesday 26th July

One good reason for keeping a blog is to keep track of the days, which is already getting difficult. We have managed to download the Times most days so far, (and also to find showers on all but one day, sometimes unexpectedly, as at tonight's stop of which more later.)

We decided not to brave Aalburg, Denmark's fourth largest city, but made for the Viking Burial site Lindholm Hoje, just north of it. As well as the extensive area of burial mounds ranged over the hillside, there were two exhibitions, one of life in the village to which the burial site had been attached, and the other about early Viking history around the local fjord area generally. Although there are Viking museums everywhere, I suspect that this is THE one to visit - but I expect we shall visit others in the weeks ahead.

We arrived at today's Camperstop destination just after 4 pm, ready to settle down with a cup of tea or two, and are still the only camper here, at 6pm. This may be because it costs less if you are just here between 8pm and 10 am, so perhaps we shall have company later. There is room for 6.
We are at a quiet little harbour at Egense, where we have paid the Harbourmaster in the Harbourmaster's house., the downstairs of which is a clubhouse for those moored up here - and us! The area around us is very open and green.There are loos and showers, which, like those at Logstor last night, are obviously provided for the moored boats as well as for those parking here to walk and cycle. Apart from bikes for hire, and ice creams for sale, and a small children's playground, there is nothing else here. There are plenty of picnic tables and chairs though, and some barbecues. The Danes are very generous with their picnic tables, and loos, in lay-bys all very nicely laid out, too.

Day Six Monday 25th July

We had prepared for a noisy night with the possibility of beach parties and the noise from  a couple of German families travelling together as our near neighbours, who had been drinking Scotch all afternoon. The wife was particularly loud, and a little mad- although maybe that was just the Scotch- but still managed to converse with us in reasonable English while swaying slightly.However all was calm, and we slept well, needing a blanket for the first time. They are much quieter this morning!
The beach and views were lovely this morning with no cars or crowds. The public services over here are impressive - in the middle of nowhere someone arrived this morning to clean and re supply the loos etc. I guess that's what you get if you pay high taxes and the revenue is properly spent on public services.
Still on our way north, we headed to Lemvig and onwards, where, really for the first time since leaving the ferry, we encountered gently undulating scenery, together with lots of lakes. We are now settled at a Camperstop in Logstor, beside the marina, with a splendid view of boats and the accompanying sound of trigging in the breeze. We have loos, showers and wifi all included for about £12. As I was allowing £25 a day for campsites this is all good. We have been surprised to find that diesel is under £1 a litre. Food though is not cheap - but all looks delicious.

Day Five Sunday 24th July

We decided that our walk around Ribe yesterday was sufficient to soak up the atmosphere of the very lovely picturesque little town, and G also went back at 10 pm to follow the Night Watchman on his rounds . See G's blog at scandijourney2016.blogspot.co.uk.
A much cooler and more comfortable day, continuing the drive up the west coast of Jutland along a couple of strands, and we are now parked in a large but isolated beach car park. It was full to overflowing with cars when we arrived, unsurprisingly for the first Sunday of school holidays, but only campervans are allowed to stay overnight. The beach is lovely, the sea calm, and the views up and down the coast beautiful. Reminiscent of Norfolk.
Geoff had a walk, I had a lovely swim, so we are both happy. With water, loos and outdoor cold showers, and a washing up station all provided, and all free it may be hard to drag ourselves away.

Day Four Saturday 23rd July

Today from rural idyll to semi-urban stop. We have secured a place in a Campervanstop for 25  vans within walking distance of the town centre of Ribe, having driven up the west coast of Jutland and done a detour around the island of Romo accessed via a causeway. Romo is clearly THE place to head to on a hot summer Saturday, with massive sands, and a large Butlinesque campsite. It also has woods and cycle tracks, and a large, new and very impressive Camperstop , where all 50+ places were taken. But our urban facility is free,and even has a loo and camper service station, with water, etc.. We plan to head into town to explore before supper, to plan what to see there tomorrow.
I was just congratulating myself on a first - having washed  my hair in the camper- when I realised that the tap from the waste water tank was not fully turned off and the water had shot all over the Tarmac just where the next door campers would step in and out of their door. A big breach of campervanning etiquette I fear. I managed to apologise in their native German and was told it was not a problem!

I am very much enjoying reading "The year of living Danishly" recommended by Bristol friends. I guess it would be as well received here as "A year in Provence" was there, but it is very informative as well as entertaining, even if the author is a bit irritating. Would you really set off to live in another country without even a few very basic words and phrases? She and her husband move to Jutland when he is offered a job with Lego. Billand , the Lego Kingdom, is not very far from where were now.

Day Three Friday 22nd July

A relaxed departure, allowing time for a good chat with neighbouring Campervanners on their way home to Switzerland after 6 weeks touring around Denmark, Norway and Sweden. About our age. Sadly their bikes had been stolen in Copenhagen two weeks ago, so they were heading home a bit early, but had otherwise had a wonderful time.
After a sticky journey, including a mass of roadworks around Hamburg, we arrived at our present site about 4 pm. We are the only ones in what feels like the back garden of a B&B just into Denmark. We have chickens on one side, and horses peering through the fence on the other side, and have been presented with two home grown cucumbers. Apparently guests are usually given eggs, but with a full house the hens have only produced enough for breakfast tomorrow. This is Airbnb for campervans!
More thunderstorms and lots of rain this evening, so feels a bit cooler now.

Day Two Thursday 21st July

A comfortable night was spent despite worries about the heat. I was glad that I had packed a spare duvet cover, which was all we needed to cover us. Thanks to my sister for the suggestion!
We tootled off late morning to see how far into Germany we could comfortably get. G has earned himself trillions of Brownie Points with two fantastic purchases before we left. The first a book, Camperstop Europe, which has proved excellent so far. It lists loads of small sites which take a certain number of campervans and means we can avoid paying for all the facilities we don't want or need, and crowded sites into the bargain. The sites listed range in cost from Free - mainly simple small hard standing areas - up to 15 euros or so a night depending on facilities offered. A bit like Certificated sites in the Uk, but for campervans. My eye was caught by one which involved parking in the Marktplatz of a small town, and had instructions to post payment through the Town Hall letterbox. The sites are not bookable in advance, and it is first come first served. An excellent departure from the rigours of booking ahead for big sites.
The second purchase was a European Sat Nav to enable us to find the sites. Entering the co-ordinates has worked so far to find very out of the way places, and we have enjoyed being able to get off the motorway and see a bit of countryside.
Tonight we are just southwest of Hamburg in a good sized very pretty wooded site with a lake and all the facilities we could ask for - apart from wi-fi! After sitting out for a while, we have had thunder, lightening, pouring rain and hailstones which have hopefully brought the temperature down a bit.
We have also had our first marinated herrings - first of many I suspect as they are a favourite of both of us - and some most beautiful strawberries from a stall in the town 10 minutes walk away, which G went to buy after we had pitched.
I have gathered my first - again of many no doubt  - batch of insect bites. I comfort myself with the knowledge that if I wasn't taking antihistamines they would certainly be worse than they are. And I am expecting them to be much worse in Scandinavia, where the mosquitoes are positively legendary, it seems. G is quite happy. They leave him alone when I am around. I am obviously much tastier.

Day One - 20th July 2016

Our first full day, and it is scorching! The Dutch lady we chatted to at our Service Station stop told us it is never usually like this in Holland. As happened last year on the Danube, we go to Northern Europe and Scandinavia to keep cool and get heat waves .

Overnight Harwich to the Hook was good. Calm as calm, and a lovely roomy cabin with a double and a single bed. Could have done without being woken up an hour and a half before docking though. They obviously want you to spend money in the shops and restaurants.

We - or Geoff to be accurate - have done about three hours driving today. A gentle start to acknowledge the lack of sleep over the last two nights. We settled at lunchtime in to a lovely small rural and shaded site on the Dutch side of the German border and plan to relax here for 24 hours.

Planning Fever

The closer we get to departure date, the more things I remember need doing before we go! Roll on the moment we set off next week, and head for the ferry port. Perhaps it will all feel real then. Today's frustration - notifying the bank so that bank cards don't get blocked. We are required to say exactly when we enter and leave each country, which rather spoils the spontaneity of touring through 7 or 8 northern European and Scandinavian countries with the freedom a campervan gives. Solution - give different overlapping dates for each of our cards and then remember which card it is safe to use. Maybe that will work. Oh for the days when a human being looked at situations before a computer acted automatically. I remember the days when my bank  would phone me to warn me that you were about to go overdrawn. Really! Next task - sorting through all the "useful" bits and pieces that have accumulated in the camper over the last 8 years. Hopefully some can be discarded to make room for the quantities of breakfasts and quick evening meals to be stowed on board in an effort to save both time and money over the next 10 weeks.