Day Fifty Six Tuesday 13th September

It wasn't a completely peaceful night, but we had expected it. The night crossings each way between Turku and Stockholm make a brief stop here, and so there was quite a bit of coming and going.

We were all ready to go in good time for our ferry. A lovely, small old-fashioned vehicle ferry, the single car deck open to the elements at one end, with room for no more than about 15 cars. Next deck up was a cafe/lounge, and a small open deck, with another small open deck above that. We settled ourselves in the "salong" for the two and a half hour trip. Comfortable seating for about a hundred - number of passengers 12! We had coffee and cake. Refills of coffee were free. The wifi was very fast! The weather was glorious, and the sky and sea brilliant blue, cloudless and totally calm respectively. There was only one stop, where a couple of vehicles left, and one came on. Very civilised! How did I ever contemplate going any other way? The experience was a complete joy!

On arrival at the island of Kokar ( pronounced Shercar) we made straight for the only campsite. The island felt like stepping back in time. It is the southernmost Kommune of Aland, and quite isolated, with only 250 inhabitants.

The campsite was deserted. Not a soul around, and no sign of any caravans, campervans or tents, although the number of bikes available to hire/borrow suggested that in high summer it is extremely popular. A lovely setting again, very rocky, and with a little jetty and swimming platform and boats dotted around. The large kitchen/eating area was open, as were the loos. Showers and launderette had keypads.

We located a phone number, which I rang, and got the owner - who was in Turku today! No problem. He gave me the codes for the doors, said electrics were all working, just choose a spot and put the money through the door at reception. Could we use the laundrette, I asked? Yes, fine, just add 4 Euros to the charge.

We put a load in the washing machine - first opportunity since we have been away, everything has had to be hand washed - and then set off for a bit of island exploring. The church and its adjoining monastery were lovely. The church was closed, but a little wooden Franciscan chapel had been built incorporating some of the monastery ruins and was quite beautiful.

On our return to the campsite, I was determined to manage a swim, and was so glad I did. The weather was perfect for it.

We have cooked and eaten in the Kitchen, and are still here watching the sunset. You would pay a lot for this view in a restaurant !

Last night, a car park. Tomorrow night, no idea, but likely to be a layby as the ferry doesn't get in to Galtby until 9 pm. But tonight, a whole beautiful campsite completely to ourselves!!!